MY STAY
Canal arrival & garden
I arrived at Aman Venice by water and felt as though I had entered someone's grand old home. The palazzo has its own canal landing, yet a quiet garden waits on the other side. My favorite mornings began beneath the Tiepolo ceiling at breakfast and ended with coffee outdoors, away from the traffic on the Grand Canal.
The historic rooms
Historic rooms are not interchangeable. Some have more light, space or canal view than others, however spectacular the public rooms look. Getting the actual bedroom and its outlook clear before booking matters more here than choosing a grand-sounding category and hoping for the best.
Dining at Arva
At Arva, I could eat in the garden or inside among the decorated rooms. Lagoon fish felt right for the setting, though the hushed atmosphere is quite different from a lively neighborhood restaurant. On another evening, eating out and coming back to the quiet palace provided the better contrast. The tables worth having are best reserved rather than left to chance.
Would I return?
Venice can be tiring even when the days are wonderful. I remember having a small garden and a calm room to return to, not just a beautiful place to arrive by boat. This is a stay for lingering in the palazzo as well as exploring beyond it.